RJ's Wine Blog

Gramercy Cellars 2009 - Part II

2012-01-03T12:00:00.000-08:00

It probably comes as no surprise, but I find myself again gushing over the Gramercy Cellars wines. I try so hard not to like them, to find flaws, to find something - anything - that will allow me to say "well, if they had just done this differently" or "finally, one that doesn't suit my palate." But, again, I come up empty. Greg Harrington and his crew over at Gramercy Cellars are making beautiful wines, plain and simple.

In this, Part II of the new releases (you can find Gramercy Cellars Part I here), I review two more of the wines: the 2008 Gramercy Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon and the 2009 Gramercy Cellars Syrah John Lewis Reserve:

2008 Gramercy Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon
Fairly typical nose on this Cabernet with dark cherry, sweet tobacco, vanilla and maple syrup, with similar elements on the palate. But, don't be tricked into thinking this isn't something special as it is incredibly smooth and well balanced, with a finish that's lingered longer than any wine for me in the past 6 months (with the exception of the John Lewis Syrah, reviewed below). Once again, Gramercy Cab shines in a crowded marketplace of Washington Cabs.
My rating: 92 / Outstanding

2009 Gramercy Cellars Syrah John Lewis Reserve
Oh man, was I excited to dive back into this wine when I got it. One of my favorites and the '09 does not disappoint. On the nose, dark ripe fruit, with a touch of cedar, sage and leather. On the palate, more dark fruit, both red and black, with swirling notes of cherry, raspberry, rhubarb, all pull together with a nice woodsy undertone. This is truly one of the most silky wines out there, with incredible balance and an absolutely stunning structure. And, if that weren't enough, it's the longest finish I've experienced in 6 - 12 months. Unbelievable and a true find for Washington Syrah lovers.
My rating: 95 / Classic

NOTE: these wines were sent to me as a free sample.

Gramercy Cellars 2009 - Part I

2011-12-29T21:00:00.000-08:00

Oh man, it's been a long time. Way too long, in my opinion. But, sometimes life just gets busy and my 2011 was just that - BUSY - and, unfortunately, the thing that suffered the most was this blog.

Now, I'm not self absorbed enough to believe that anyone truly cared or I ruined anyone's day (although, shockingly, I gained over 1,500 twitter followers while I was "away") but, it has occurred to me that I personally started missing the fun of it all. I guess beyond just loving wine, there's something inside me that needs to talk about the wines I drink and not just with my nerdy wine geek friends (even though they are a solid group of people). Most of all, the blog pushes me to constantly taste and explore wines, which is what it's really all about...and what I've been missing the most.

So, here I am, trying to get back at it. And, what better producer to start with than Gramercy Cellars? I mean, seriously, Greg Harrington and crew are producing some absolutely stellar wines using Washington fruit. I last posted about Gramercy Cellars over a year ago now (way too long) and it's time to dive into the 2009's. Today, we focus on two: the 2009 Lagniappe Columbia Valley Syrah and the 2009 Columbia Valley Third Man:

2009 Lagniappe Columbia Valley Syrah
So much ripe and tart raspberry, with warm smoke, minerals and toast on the nose. On the palate, incredibly silky with more raspberry and smoke, accompanied by tobacco and cedar. Strong tannins and a surprising level of acidity (all good), with a very strong and lingering finish. Still a little tight, but that will just take some time to resolve, so if you already have some bottles, wait a year or two minimum - you won't regret it.
My rating: 93

2009 Columbia Valley Third Man
There's a lot of menthol on this nose, far more than I've experienced lately. For me, that is a beautiful aroma, one that grabs the nose and holds on as if it really was meant to heal what ails you. Beyond that, red and black fruits (a fair amount of rhubarb coming through, actually), tobacco and a slight touch of hickory smoke. This wine is more subdued than the Lagniappe, with less acidity and richer, but definitely fighting at the same weight in terms of depth, balance and finish. The blend is 50% Grenache, 28% Syrah and 22% Mourvèdre.
My rating: 92

NOTE: these wines were sent to me as free samples.

Kosta Browne 2009 Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

2011-11-22T14:02:00.001-08:00

For those of you who have followed me pretty regularly in the past, you probably noticed that I've fallen off a cliff this year with only a few blog posts. Sorry about that - real life took hold and my time has been very limited this year. I'm hoping to get the time to start back up in full force soon, but, in the meantime, I wanted to re-post one of my few posts this week that just showed up as the #1 wine on Wine Spectator's Top 100 for 2011 - the Kosta Browne 2009 Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir. Wine Spectator gave it a 95, I gave it a 93, so it looks like like I'll need to dig back into the cellar to try another bottle and see who's right.

Original post from April 8, 2011:

Once again, Kosta Browne comes through with a stunner. This is not your delicate flowery Pinot that decided it would be a a ski bum in Mount Hood, Oregon...this one makes no apologies about being a big, bold, in your face California Pinot.

On the nose, it's rose petals smashed into a queen-size bed of dark chocolate, with a hint of marshmallow and spice. The palate is stemmy - good tree bark stemmy - with a wash of rose petals, mocha and dried cherry.

Okay, so that was a little dramatic on the description, but, at least take this away - if you have not had Kosta Browne Pinot Noir before, I'm not sure I want to hear from you until you have.

My rating: 93

2007 Archery Summit Pinot Noir Arcus Chêne d'Oregon Arcus Estate

2011-05-02T13:00:00.000-07:00

One of the stronger Pinot Noir's I've tasted from Willamette Valley. Strong in substance and structure, but elegant in its weight and mouth feel, this wine truly delivers. Plenty of good red and black fruit, but not overbearing, with nice earth on the palate. There is also a little mushroom and sage on the finish. Paired well with both halibut and wagyu strip loin. Solid Pinot Noir from Dundee Hills.

My rating: 91

2009 Veramonte Pinot Noir Ritual

2011-04-28T15:30:00.000-07:00

I have to admit that the further I get into wine, the less Pinot Noir shows up on my "go to" wines. My wife loves Pinot, so that allows me to keep up with what's out there, but if I had to choose, it's not the type of wine I'd pull from the cellar on any given night. However, this Pinot Noir from Chile is one I would pull on any weekday to enjoy something a little out of the ordinary.

There is very little fruit on this wine (which is fine with me as I find delicate, over-fruity Pinots not to my liking) and the complexity comes from a mix of not-yet-ripe dark black fruit and earth. Not for all Pinot Noir lovers, but if you are on the fence about Pinot, this one may be worth a shot.

The 2008 of this wine is #87 on Wine Spectator's 2010 Top 100.

My rating: 90 / Outstanding

NOTE: This wine was sent to me as a free sample.

2006 Loma Larga Syrah BK-BL

2011-04-28T13:30:00.000-07:00

Blackberries, cured meat, cinnamon and herbs. This is a big Syrah, with a very broad mouth and a long, lingering finish. Acidity is low and the wine overall comes across as brooding, with a hot finish. Not the best Syrah I've ever had, but definitely has some redeeming qualities.

My rating: 87 / Very Good

NOTE: this wine was sent to me as a free sample.

2009 Hacienda Araucano (Lurton) Syrah

2011-04-28T12:00:00.000-07:00

I thought this wine was a little thin when I first tasted it, but a few nights later, I'm very pleasantly surprised by how much it's opened up. Turned into quite a nice wine. In fact, nice enough to score a 90 with Wine Advocate, not an easy feat for a $13 wine. Big, earthy, ripe red fruit nose, with hints of forest floor and sage. On the palate, plum, dark brooding cherries and tree bark. Broad mouthfeel, nice acidity, good strong finish.

Man, I am going to find some more of this - at a $13 price point, this wine is a major steal.

My rating: 88 / Very Good

NOTE: this wine was sent to me as a free sample.

2009 Undurraga Syrah T.H.

2011-04-28T10:00:00.000-07:00

I tasted this wine as part of the Wines of Chile tasting a few weeks back and really enjoyed it. It's a savory, big nose with dark red fruit, bacon and earth. On the palate, it's dark cherry, pomegranate and cedar, with a surprisingly high level of acidity, giving this wine much more life than I expected. Actually thought from the nose that this would be a lot darker and more brooding than it is. Still tastes like a big Syrah, but very well balanced in both its elements and acidity levels. Very nice.

My rating: 90 / Outstanding

NOTE: This wine was sent to me as a free sample.

2009 Kosta Browne Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast

2011-04-08T12:00:00.000-07:00

Once again, Kosta Browne comes through with a stunner. This is not your delicate flowery Pinot that decided it would be a a ski bum in Mount Hood, Oregon...this one makes no apologies about being a big, bold, in your face California Pinot.

On the nose, it's rose petals smashed into a queen-size bed of dark chocolate, with a hint of marshmallow and spice. The palate is stemmy - good tree bark stemmy - with a wash of rose petals, mocha and dried cherry.

Okay, so that was a little dramatic on the description, but, at least take this away - if you have not had Kosta Browne Pinot Noir before, I'm not sure I want to hear from you until you have.

My rating: 93

2006 Chanticleer Sangiovese

2011-02-17T16:00:00.000-08:00

Interesting Sangiovese. Pulled this one out to compliment some pasta we were planning for dinner. Turns out it wasn't the best pairing but still a good and very interesting wine. What struck me the most was the amount of oak on the wine. The first glass was almost as if the wine had been "burned" by the inside of the barrel, billowing pillows of smoke all over my palate - not at all what I expected from a Sangiovese. It did ease up a bit on the 2nd glass, as the wine had time to open up and the smoke turned out to be a nice addition to the juice. I wouldn't run out and buy any more, but I always like when a wine surprises me.

My rating: 89 / Very Good

Ceja Vineyards

2011-02-17T13:00:00.000-08:00

2007 Ceja Pinot Noir
Dark cherry, herbal notes and a very light spice note on the palate. This is a very smooth drinking Pinot and one that does not skimp on flavor. Not quite a huge California Pinot, but not an Oregon delicate diva either. Nicely balanced and strong, lingering finish. Well done, Ceja...well done.

My rating: 90
***************

2008 Ceja Chardonnay
There are so many California Chardonnay's on the market and so many of them are big, gnarly oak bombs, sometimes to the point that I feel like I may have gotten an oak stave stuck between my teeth. To be fair, I'm actually pretty good with those oak monsters now and again and have even found myself craving that flavor from time to time (but that's between you and me). What I like about this Ceja Chard is that there's definitely oak, enough to experience it, but it's not overwhelming and plays more of a support role than a leading actor role. Meyer lemon, honey and a bit of spice on the nose, with a smooth and layered palate of meyer lemon, grapefruit, lavender and oak. Overall, very nice Chardonnay.

My rating: 89 / Very Good

NOTE: these wines were sent to me as samples from the winery.

2003 Reverie Cabernet Sauvignon Special Reserve

2011-02-17T10:00:00.000-08:00

I had never heard of Reverie until last week when I was at a friend's house and he gave me a bottle. In fact, there are very few Diamond Mountain wineries that are on my radar, with the exception of Diamond Creek. So, when I got this bottle home, it didn't take long to dive in and see what was there. Very nice juice, I must say. This is a big, age-able wine from Napa, but not in the dark brooding sense, more like a Kathryn Kennedy Lateral, with a bit more acid and liveliness in the blend. A somewhat subdued nose with black fruit, eucalyptus and smoldering campfire embers. The palate shows the same rich dark fruit, cedar and tobacco leaf, with a much higher level of acidity than I would expect. So vibrant and alive, this wine. A very nice diversion from the dark, bone crushing Napa Cabs of note (although, please don't get me wrong - there are some great ones in that category as well).

My rating: 91 / Outstanding

2007 Sparkman Cellars Wilderness

2011-01-13T15:00:00.000-08:00

It's always nice to find a good $20-ish bottle of wine, one that holds its own and you don't feel guilty drinking on a weeknight. This is one of those wines. Nicely balanced, with a smooth, mid-length finish. Bright, juicy red fruits up front, with tobacco and earth. Medium and refreshing acidity, with surprisingly grippy tannins. Next time I have this wine, it's going to be with a very juicy burger and a huge plate of french fries.

My rating: 88 / Very Good

Grand Reve Vintners Collaboration Series I Ciel du Cheval Vineyard Red Mountain

2011-01-13T12:00:00.000-08:00

2004 Grand Reve Vintners Collaboration Series I Ciel du Cheval Vineyard Red Mountain
When I last posted about this wine, I didn't like it - gave it an 80 and didn't really get what the wine was about. I thought maybe it was because it was the first run of Grand Reve and they still had some kinks to work out. But, turns out I may have gotten a bottle that, if not fully corked, was at the very least not the best bottle of the lot.

So, the good folks at Grand Reve saw my reaction and reached out with a new bottle of the 2004 and an additional bottle of the 2006. This new bottle was much better. I will stand by what I said that the Series I is not my favorite of the Grand Reve series (the Series III is my consistent favorite), but this 2004 showed much better than the previous bottle. Dark red fruits, menthol and bacon on the nose, followed by an additional mocha note on the palate. There is a definite savory undertone to this wine that can be off-putting to some, but to those who appreciate a savory note now and again (you know who you are, Cayuse fans), this is probably right up your alley.

My rating: 89 / Very Good

2006 Grand Reve Vintners Collaboration Series I Ciel du Cheval Vineyard Red Mountain
On to the 2006...Grand Reve has clearly worked out some of the wrinkles of the 2004 and continue to improve the Series I. The 2006 offering is very strong, with a nose of dark cherry, Mexican chocolate and anise and a palate to match. Still some savory notes, like the 2004, but more integrated into the blend this time. Smooth and long finish. My pick of the two...

My rating: 91 / Outstanding

NOTE: these wines were sent to me as free samples.

2006 Hightower Cellars Red Wine Red Mountain

2011-01-13T04:00:00.000-08:00

Part of the Garagiste #9 mystery wine case...

This is a much better wine than I expected, mostly because I've been living in Washington for almost 20 years now and have never heard of them, which made opening the mystery case all that much better. Win-win on that count. And, a win on the wine itself. Bold, ripe fruit, with earth, leather, chocolate and whip cream. Anyone else had this wine? Would love to hear other's opinions.

My rating: 88 / Very Good

2006 Chanticleer Sangiovese

2010-12-30T17:00:00.000-08:00

My wife and I visited Chanticleer a few years back on the recommendation of our driver. When we arrived it turned out to be more the owner's home than an actual winery. That said, he had a fantastic cave-like cellar off the side of his house, built into the hill, and a hillside vineyard to make it all complete. Pretty cool location and cellar. The wine is good - a nice nose of chocolate, cherry and herbs with a palate that adds more chocolate and a bit of spice. Not the most memorable wine, but something that was worth pulling out of the cellar - probably drinking close to its peak right now.

My rating: 89 / Very Good

2006 Thelema Cabernet Sauvignon

2010-12-30T15:00:00.000-08:00

One dimensional - all liquid smoke...

My rating: 83 / Good

2008 Mark Ryan Board Track Racer "The Vincent"

2010-12-30T13:00:00.000-08:00

I love the label on this wine. Great design and and an image that's very familiar to anyone who knows Mark or has been to his tasting room in Woodinville. Next step is to take what Joel Gott did with The Show and his movie poster designers and create a label with some rock poster guys to send me right over the edge. Oh, please, Mark won't you? I would love to see more rock-art type labels...the format deserves it.

As for the wine, very nice. Great weekday drinker. Nothing overly complex or unique, but something that every fan of Washington wines should have on hand. Solid dark cherry, pomegranate, saddle leather and a touch of vanilla oak. Big mouthfeel, higher acidity than I expected (a good thing) and a long, sustained finish. Well done, Mark. (again)

My rating: 88 / Very Good

2004 Clos du Val Cabernet Sauvignon Stag's Leap Vineyard

2010-12-30T11:00:00.000-08:00

There are three wineries in Napa that I think are over-rated - Chimney Rock, Cakebread and Clos du Val. I want to like all three of them, but I struggle to do so. Chimney Rock is a beautiful winery, but the wines just fall flat for me. Cakebread has one of the most orchestrated winery tastings in Napa, but there are just too many people going through at once and, in the end, I have yet to meet a Cakebread wine that I truly love. Clos du Val is also a beautiful facility, and quite unique (like Chimney Rock), but the hype is a little too high for me. I've tried probably 1/2 a dozen Clos du Val wines and all of them have left me just a little empty. This Stags Leap is decent, but felt over-oaked and hot. At $60+, its not worth it.

My rating: 87 / Very Good

2006 Buty Columbia Rediviva Phinny Hill Vineyard

2010-12-30T10:00:00.000-08:00

I never, ever forget what a great wine this is. It's just so damn smooth and balanced, with not just a huge flavor profile, but also a very unique blend of flavors. On the nose, blackberry bush, spring rain and chocolate. On the palate, blackberry, earth, leather and a touch of lavender. So well balanced and hits the palate so uniformly it's almost like each component of the juice got their precise marching orders in advance. Long, smooth finish, with no heat or any irregularities. I'm telling you, this is a really nice wine and if you have not tried it, get some. Buty is one of the best producers in Washington. Period.

My rating: 92 / Outstanding

2007 Amavi Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon

2010-12-23T18:00:00.000-08:00

This is a damn nice weekday wine. No doubt about it. And, at a great price point of low - mid $20's. On the nose, smells like dark chocolate moose munch - not the all dark chocolate blend, but the part dark chocolate / part regular moose munch. A bit sweet and a bit savory. There's also some red cherry and, of all things, blood orange. On the palate, it's cherry, chocolate and a touch of pomegranate. Big tannins on this wine and a lot more sediment than I expected, but, overall, a very nice wine for the price. One of the better Washington Cabs that I've tasted in this price range.

My rating: 89 / Very good

2008 Scarecrow Cabernet Sauvignon Monsieur Ètain Cohn Ranch

2010-12-23T16:00:00.000-08:00

I'm a bit torn on this one. I really do love Scarecrow and am happy to be holding on to the 2007, which Parker just awarded a perfect score of 100 (I'm not always on board with Parker on his perfect scores, but, in this case, I think I'll hold on to these wines until they're mature enough to prove or disprove his case). This wine, the Monsieur Ètain Cohn Ranch, is a second label effort from Scarecrow, using some of the juice that was still great, but not quite fit for Scarecrow. Where I'm torn is that I thought it was a good wine, but, at over $100, I'm not sure it lives up to the promise yet. No doubt if I could fill my cellar with a few more, I would, but maybe at a lower price point. Solid black fruit, leather and anise, with slight herbal and savory notes. Nicely balanced, with almost no acidity and a long, savory finish. If you have any of this wine, I would hold on to it for a few years at least - maybe it's just drinking too young right now.

My rating: 90 / Outstanding

2007 Long Shadows Wineries Cabernet Sauvignon Feather

2010-12-23T12:00:00.000-08:00

For those of you that follow my tasting notes regularly, you know that I am a big fan of Long Shadows wine. It's an interesting concept to bring so many great winemakers together under one umbrella, even if it's an idea limited to those who have enough money to pull it off, as does Allen Shoup, the founder. This Feather is not my favorite Long Shadows wine (those would be Chester Kidder and Pedestal), but it holds its own, no question. Incredibly smooth and silky, well balanced and a finish that lingers for a while. Red fruit (mostly cherry and plum), chocolate and a hint of Christmas spice, this is a good, easy drinker and a great introduction to the Long Shadows line.

My rating: 90 / Outstanding

Wines of Chile

2010-12-23T10:00:00.000-08:00

2006 De Martino Single Vineyard Old Bush Vines Las Cruces

Good, full-bodied Chilean wine. Solid red fruit, with leather and tobacco notes. Nicely balanced, with strong, but not overbearing tannins. Medium-long finish. Not sure I'd buy it in the $35 range, more like a $20 - $30 wine, but still a good effort.

My rating: 87 / Very Good

2005 Valdivieso Éclat

I have to admit, I was a bit surprised by this one. Not even sure why, but when I opened it and poured it into the glass, just felt like a wine I may not like. But, a very pleasant surprise indeed. A bit of a subdued nose, with ripe red fruit, must, aged saddle leather and just a touch of sage. Drinks very smooth, with a noticeable level of acidity and a strong, vibrant finish. A touch hot on the finish, but not a detriment to the overall experience. Nice price point at mid-$20's.

My rating: 88 / Very Good

NOTE: these wines were sent to me as a free sample

2007 Cayuse God Only Knows

2010-12-22T17:30:00.000-08:00

For me, one of the true tests of a wine is to just pour it and drink, no swirling, no aerators, no decanting, no nothing. Just straight from bottle to glass to mouth. It's the best way I know to taste the wine without any outside influences, particularly if you're tasting a wine you bought in a restaurant. This God Only Knows, particularly by the "no outside influence" rule, is truly a great wine. Drank almost perfect straight from the bottle - a little hot on the finish at first, but still very solid. Lots of good earth, black fruit and some herbs on the nose. A big nose for how light the wine is - definitely has the appearance more of a Grenache than of some of the other, darker Cayuse Syrah's. On the palate, a very nice combination of blackberry, leather, tobacco leaf and spice. Like a lot of the Cayuse wines, definitely has a savory aspect to it. Another great one from Cayuse.

My rating: 93 / Outstanding

2010 Georges Dubœuf Beaujolais Nouveau

2010-12-16T12:00:00.000-08:00

Really impressed with this wine and I didn't think I was a Beaujolais fan. I mean, let's be honest - a red wine that's better served chilled is a bit of a hard one to swallow (so to speak). It just doesn't feel right. But, this one is one of the better ones and, at a price point of under $10, it is a screaming deal. As in, buy it if you see it. I saw it Costco here in Seattle a few weeks back and I should have bought a case. Solid red fruit and great balance, this wine has a surprisingly long finish and is probably a great wine to serve with / replace the lighter Pinot Noir you were planning for your holiday meals...and probably at a fraction of the cost.

My rating: 87 / Very Good

NOTE: this wine was sent to me as a free sample.

My Top Wine Picks for 2010...

2010-12-14T10:00:00.000-08:00

It’s that time of year again when the wine world is inundated with “Best of…” and “Top [pick your number] Wines of the Year.” We all do them and we all have our own opinions of what’s best. But, let’s be honest…unless you’re Wine Spectator or another large reviewer that gets to taste just about every wine on the market, it’s very hard to come out with a comprehensive ist of this type. So, this year I’m going to do it a bit different. No top ten list, like I’ve done in the past - this year I've focused simply on wines that were memorable for me throughout the year, for better or worse.

Enjoy!

***WINE OF THE YEAR***

2007 Woodward Canyon Cabernet Sauvignon Old Vines Although this was probably opened well before its prime, I was absolutely stunned by how well this is drinking right now. Layers upon layers of complexity on both the nose and the palate. Eucalyptus, leather, tobacco and crostini (that's a new one for me) on the nose, with rich dark fruit, leather and tobacco flavors on the palate. Absolute stunner! My rating: 96 / Classic

***BEST OVERALL LINE-UP***

Food & Wine was not fooling around when they awarded Gramercy Cellars with the "Best New Winery in America" Award. It's been a long time since I've been impressed with a whole line-up of someone's wines. There's usually at least one that's not to my taste. But, not in this case. All very impressive wines from a winery that's come of age very quickly.

If you want to read the whole review you can check it out at Gramercy Cellars, but here are some quick ratings:

2007 Gramercy Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon - My rating: 94 / Outstanding

2008 Gramercy Cellars The Third Man - My rating: 92 / Outstanding

2008 Gramercy Cellars Tempranillo Inigo Montoya Tempranillo - My rating: 94 / Outstanding

2008 Gramercy Cellars Syrah - My rating: 92 / Outstanding

***BEST BUBBLY UNDER $20***

NV Gruet Brut Oh, this one makes me proud having grown up in Albuquerque, New Mexico. Who would have thought that a good sparkling wine would come out of the Southwest, let alone Albuquerque? But there's more wine making and grape growing in the area than you might think. This particular Brut, under $20 (even in the Marin, CA store where I bought it) is a great QPR bubbly. Very rich but also mellow and not too overbearing, with tons of great citrus and acidic notes. One of the best sub-$20 bubblies I've ever tasted. My rating: 88 / Very Good

***BEST OVER THE TOP WINE***

2004 Château Lafite Rothschild This one and the Mouton Rothschild were worth the price of admission at the Wine Spectator Grand Tour tasting in New York. Unbelievable wine - intense, complex and so well balanced. Different flavors and textures come in waves every sip and the finish lasts for a good long time. This was my first Chateau Lafite and it exceeded all my expectations. My rating: 97 / Classic

***BEST SURPRISES***

2008 Double Diamond (Schrader) Cabernet Sauvignon Amber Knolls Vineyard For my palate, this wine is a stunner and one of the more unusual wines I've tried this year. The first thing I noticed was the incredible red chile component. Not red pepper or the chiles passed off in grocery stores as authentic. I'm talking about chile ristras hanging from the awning of a rundown adobe hut just outside Belen...or, better yet, a ristra hanging off the side of a home in the Taos pueblo. Not cooked, but still dry and reeking of the warmth, heat and slight bitterness of a dried red chile. Seriously, that's like home to me. You'd think it's a weird flavor on a red wine, but, man, this one really made me feel homesick. Black fruits, cumin, star anise and a touch of cinnamon top off the flavor profile. Huge mouthfeel, but with restrained tannins and a long, lingering, take me back home kind of finish. Outstanding wine and well worth trying if you can get your hands on some (the 2008 is already sold out). Very nicely done, Schrader. My rating: 93 / Outstanding

2008 Rôtie Cellars Northern Blend Big fan of what's going on at Rotie Cellars. First introduced to this wine and producer at the Wine Bloggers Conference in Walla Walla this last summer. It was not part of any of the organized tastings, but was still one of the most hyped wines at the event. Beautiful structure, perfect balance, big black fruit - a true stunner and one worth trying. Truly great Northern Rhone out of Washington. My rating: 92 / Outstanding

***BEST DOMESTIC RED WINE UNDER $20***

2007 Tamarack Cellars Firehouse Red Raspberry, blackberry, mocha, smoke (from the Carménère ...rare addition for a US blend, at least in my experience) and pepper - it's lush, broad on the palate and well balanced, with a long, lingering finish. This is an incredible wine for the price (about $15) and if I can find any more, I'll pick up everything I can get my hands on. My rating: 90 / Outstanding

***BEST BORDEAUX UNDER $20***

2005 Château Bel Air la Royère I gotta tell ya, I did not expect this...this is a great bottle of wine! Picked it up through Garagiste and am completely stunned by the quality given the low price point. Cherry, tobacco, leather, cedar on the nose, with an explosive, broad mouth feel and probably the longest finish I've ever experienced on a sub $20 Bordeaux. Almost makes me wish I didn't open this bottle. Definitely could use some more time, but the body, the tannins, the structure, the acid, the elements - they're all there. This is the real thing. And I will hold on to my other 5 bottles like it was first BMX bike or, better yet, my current collection of Hot Wheels (even my own son is going to have to fight for those). My rating: 90 / Outstanding (VERY high QPR on this wine)

***BEST WHITE WINES UNDER $20***

2008 Lucien Albrecht Pinot Gris Cuvée Romanus Excellent Pinot Gris and under $20. Crisp lemon and citrus, with a smooth, buttery broad palate and long finish. Recommendation from the sommelier at Cafe Campagne in Seattle and absolutely hit the mark. Immediately picked up a case. My rating: 90 / Outstanding

2008 Ross Andrew Winery Meadow White Blend This is a very nice, easy drinking white wine blend, made up mostly of Pinot Blanc, but with undisclosed additions of Pinot Gris, Riesling and Gewurztraminer. The nose is definitely the combo of all four varietals with meyer lemon, floral notes, minerals and just a touch of lemon grass. On the palate, very well balanced, with a strong showing from the meyer lemon and minerals. It's crisp, but still has a smooth, buttery undertone. Low-mid acidity with a long, minerally finish. My rating: 88/ Very Good

***BEST WHITE WINE OVER $20***

2009 Matthiasson Napa Valley White Wine This is a beautifully structured wine. Good, clean citrus notes, rich and broad mouthfeel, multiple layers, all supported by a perfect mineral base. No question I have a bit of a crush on this wine, but I do think it's for good reason. It is, simply put, one of the best whites I've tasted in years. You cannot lose with either the 2008 or 2009 and it's well worth trying to get at least one of each, if not more. My rating: 93 / Outstanding

***BEST WEEKDAY ITALIAN WINE***

2007 Vietti Barbera d'Asti Tre Vigne I'm a big fan of Vietti as a producer - haven't met one of their wines I didn't like. Tart cherry, herbs and pepper, with a very broad mid-palate, great acidity and mid-length finish. Looking forward to getting more of this for the cellar. On a side note, doesn't pair well with Girl Scout Thin Mints cookies...although I'm perfectly fine eating and drinking them separately. My rating: 89 / Very Good

***WORST WINE WITH THE MOST HYPE***

2006 Havens Wine Cellars Merlot Really bummed out with this one. Bought a case at what I thought was a steal for $6.99 a bottle at K&L Wines, one of my favorite and most trusted wine sources. Opened one bottle and thought it had gone bad, so opened another, which was okay the first night but the second night it tasted like the first bottle. Not worth giving tasting notes on this one except to say it tasted like wine in a can - very tinny and bitter. My rating: 70 / Not Recommended

*** “COMPLETELY CONFUSED” ***
2008 Chariot Gypsy One of the all-time most hyped wines at Trader Joe’s, this wine has a fanatical following. But, even at $5, this wine is a complete waste of money. I can't believe how hyped this wine is - it's sweet, unbalanced and diluted. No reason to buy this if you see it. My rating: 75 / Mediocre (at best)

2008 Double Diamond (Schrader) Cabernet Sauvignon Amber Knolls Vineyard

2010-12-09T16:00:00.000-08:00

For my palate, this wine is a stunner and one of the more unusual wines I've tried this year. The first thing I noticed was the incredible red chile component. Not red pepper or the chiles passed off in grocery stores as authentic. I'm talking about chile ristras hanging from the awning of a rundown adobe hut just outside Belen...or, better yet, a ristra hanging off the side of a home in the Taos pueblo. Not cooked, but still dry and reaking of the warmth, heat and slight bitterness of a dried red chile. Seriously, that's like home to me. You'd think it's a weird flavor on a red wine, but, man, this one really made me feel homesick. On top of that the black fruits, cumin, star anise and a touch of cinnamon top this off to be one of the late surprise hits of the year for me. Huge mouthfeel, but with restrained tannins and a long, lingering, take me back home kind of finish. Outstanding wine and well worth trying if you can get your hands on some (the 2008 is already sold out). Very nicely done, Schrader.

My rating: 93 / Outstanding

2008 Double Diamond (Schrader) Cabernet Sauvignon Bomber X

2010-12-09T14:00:00.000-08:00

I was excited to get this wine from Schrader, particularly after Wine Spectator gave Schrader so many accolades for their wines this year. This wine is billed as "Amazing Quality, Exceptional Value" on their website and I have to agree with that. This wine is everything I think is right about big California Cabernet - not too over-oaked and not too over-ripe, it drinks very smoothly with lush tannins and an incredible flavor profile of dark cherries, tobacco, saddle leather and a touch of warm earth. At $40, it's not necessarily a weeknight quaffer, but it certainly drinks easy and solidly competes with wines in its price range.

My rating: 91 / Outstanding

2007 Six Prong Cabernet Sauvignon

2010-12-09T12:00:00.000-08:00

Well, now, looky here...what a nice little surprise this bottle of wine turned out to be. Seriously. I've had Six Prong wines before and none of them have been all that memorable, but this one stood up very well. Now, it may not be a wine I'll remember years down the road or write about in my diary (wait, as a blogger I guess that's partially what I am doing...), but it was a nice weekday drinker. Well balance, good strong black fruits, subdued oak and warm leather. Good broad mouthfeel throughout, with a medium, but lingering finish. Overall, worth trying. Maybe pair it with a big juicy burger from the grill...and winter is no excuse to not be barbecuing - braving the cold for a hot, juicy burger is a noble act.

My rating: 88 / Very Good

2008 Sherwood Estate Pinot Noir

2010-12-09T10:00:00.000-08:00

There are very few, if any, Pinot Noir's that I like in this price category. It's just too hard to take a grape as persnickety and unruly as Pinot Noir and tame it into a $15 bottling (correct me if you think I'm wrong here). Not to say that all Pinot Noir should be far more expenive, but, in my experience, the jump from a sub-$20 bottle of Pinot to a $30+ bottle of Pinot is one of the most profound out there. Truly. This wine is no exception. It's too light, drinks like fruit juice, has an odd assortment of spices that feel very out of balance to me and barely has a finish. Like the CDP before it, it just left me wanting so much more...but, unfortunately, more of some other wine.

My rating: 82 / Good

NOTE: this wine was sent to me as a free sample

2007 Clos de l'Oratoire des Papes Châteauneuf-du-Pape

2010-12-09T08:00:00.000-08:00

I think I may be at the end of my Châteauneuf-du-Pape rope. I've tried so many different CDP's and none of them match my palate that well. I know there are a ton of people out there that love their CDP's and the 2007 vintage is being sold as an epic one, but there's something just off for me. It could be the overall fragility of the wines or the fruit or the funk I sometimes get, but, overall, CDP's just leave me empty. Not enough mouthfeel or finish. So, probably not going to give any CDP a high rating, at least for my palate. This one is perfectly fine - feels well balanced, fruit is tasty and there are some good Christmas spice notes - but, overall, just leaves me wanting more. If there are any suggestions on a CDP that I must try, let me know, but, for now at least, I'll probably give up the ghost on CDP.

My rating: 87 / Very Good

NV Gruet Brut

2010-12-02T14:00:00.000-08:00

Oh, this one makes me proud having grown up in Albuquerque, New Mexico. Who would have thought that a good sparkling wine would come out of the Southwest, let alone Albuquerque? But there's more wine making and grape growing in the area than you might think. This particular Brut, under $20 (even in the Marin, CA store where I bought it) is a great QPR bubbly. Very rich but also mellow and not too overbearing, with tons of great citrus and acidic notes. One of the best sub-$20 bubblies I've ever tasted.

My rating: 88 / Very Good

2007 Ghost Block Cabernet Sauvignon

2010-12-02T12:00:00.000-08:00

Hadn't had Ghost Block in a while, so when I saw this one in the store, felt like the right wine to have with the Chateaubriand my brother-in-law had in his Traeger smoker. And, as I hoped, this wine paired amazing well. It's a big CA Cab and fairly typical of that genre, but with a very nice acidity level and spectacular smoke on the nose (probably what helped pair it well with the meat). Dark red fruit and mocha were added on to a lush, broad palate. A touch light on the finish and not terribly complex, but someone at the table remarked "tastes like it's supposed to" and I'll take that any day...

My rating: 90 / Outstanding

2008 Arnot-Roberts Syrah

2010-11-25T12:00:00.000-08:00

I first read about this producer in a Wall Street Journal article a few weeks back and was very intrigued by the write-up and it does not disappoint. On the nose, black cherry, vanilla, lavender and tobacco. But the palate is where this one really shines. It's unlike most Syrah's I've tasted (with the exception of some Southern Rhones) mostly because the acid is so high, hitting the palate immediately and following through all the way to the finish. It's also leading a pack of wild tannins right behind it. Very interesting, almost a bit refreshing, as some of the Syrah's I've had recently are hearty, brooding bastards. This one is that wines innocent little brother, the one who's bullied for his lack of street smarts., but ends up getting the girl anyhow. Blueberry, cherry, tobacco and flash of buttery toast on the finish. Great stuff.

My rating: 90 / Outstanding

2007 Villa di Capezzana Barco Reale di Carmignano

2010-11-25T11:00:00.000-08:00

Pretty typical super Tuscan, but, that said, it's awfully nice. On the nose, cherry, licorice, mint and forest moss (think fallen log in the middle of a hiking trail). Huge flavor profile on the palate - red fruits and plum, with slight floral and leather notes. Great acidity, with big tannins and a long finish. And when I say big tannins, I'm talking tooth-strippping tannins, more than I've experienced on most super Tuscans. Reasonably priced, great with pasta and red sauce (which I had tonight) and something that I will definitely seek out for my weeknight wine supply.

My rating: 88 / Very Good

2006 Littorai Pinot Noir Savoy Vineyard

2010-11-25T10:00:00.001-08:00

Had a choice of some Oregon Pinot Noir and this one from California. Chose this one because I wanted a fuller, spicier wine for the dinner. But, when this thing hit the glass, it was so light and delicate, like a sweet Oregon Pinot flower. Not exactly what I was looking for. However, when I tasted it there was a little more heft than I thought. Still on the delicate side, with floral, red fruit and spice notes. Elegant balance and long finish. The thing I liked most about this wine was that I wanted to keep it in my mouth for a while - as I swirled it on my palate, layers developed that would not have been there had I not lingered. Very nice Pinot.

My rating: 90 / Outstanding

2007 Domaine les Pallières Gigondas Les Racines

2010-11-25T09:00:00.000-08:00

Had this out at dinner tonight and was really pleased with how the wine showed. Incredibly aromatic nose, with berries, cherries and tobacco leaf, followed a big fig palate. And when I say fig I literally mean fig - almost tasted like a glass of fig compote but without the jammy sweetness. Strong tannins, but even so, this wine is incredibly elegant and balanced for how young it is. A very refined wine, but able to please the most delicate or demanding of palates.

My rating: 91 / Outstanding

2004 Roth Cabernet Sauvignon

2010-11-25T08:00:00.000-08:00

Oh, bring us a figgy pudding;
Oh, bring us a figgy pudding and a cup of good cheer

That about says it all - fig bomb!

My rating: 87 / Very Good

Whole Foods Wine Holiday Top Ten List - Wrap-up

2010-11-23T12:00:00.000-08:00

Well, that's it for this year's Whole Foods Holiday Top Ten Wine List. As with most years, some tasty wines and some off the mark, but, always a fun ride getting to know what Doug Bell and the Whole Foods wine crew are putting together for each of their two annual top ten lists. For the Holiday list this year, here's a summary of where they all fared:

2009 Paso a Paso Tempranillo - 88 / Very Good
2009 Romerhof Winery Riesling - 88 / Very Good
2009 Romerhof Winery Riesling - 88 / Very Good
2009 Louis Latour Pouilly-Fuissé - 87 / Very Good
2009 Chalone Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc - 87 Very Good
2009 Earthstone Chardonnay - 87 / Very Good
NV De Chanceney Cremant de Loire - 84 / Good
2009 Bubo Old Vine Zinfandel - 84 / Good
2009 Estancia Pinot Noir Pinnacles Ranches - 82 / Good
2008 Dievole Dievolino, Rosso di Sangiovese Toscana - 81 / Good

Compared to the last 4 Top Ten lists, here's how this holiday's compared:

Bottom line? Too close to call. My question is this...is Whole Foods really this consistent or is the range of wines in the mid-80's averages just not that exciting? Hard to say. If you have an opinion, let me know in the comments - would love to start up a conversation about it.

Happy Holidays!!

Tamarack Firehouse Red Columbia Valley 2008

2010-11-22T16:00:00.000-08:00

The Wine Spectator Top 100 2010 list is out today and it looks like a few wines from this year's reviews made it to the list. At #49, the Tamarack Firehouse Red Columbia Valley 2008 - a wine that I'm excited on the list as I think this is one of the best sub-$20 red blends on the market...anywhere (as in, if you see it buy it...a lot of it (below you will find my original notes on the 2007 vintage of this wine from a post on February 1, 2010). *******************

Raspberry, blackberry, mocha, smoke (from the Carménère ...rare addition for a US blend, at least in my experience) and pepper - it's lush, broad on the palate and well balanced, with a long, lingering finish. This is an incredible wine for the price (about $15) and if I can find any more, I'll pick up everything I can let my hands on.

My rating: 90 / Outstanding

And, the blend on this thing is crazy (see below) - makes me want to be there for that blending party...probably takes a week to figure it all out. BLEND

31% Cabernet Sauvignon (15% Walla Walla Valley, 9% Columbia Valley, 4% Wahluke Slope, 3% Rattlesnake Hills
27% Syrah (17% Columbia Valley, ◦6% Horse Heaven Hills, 2% Wahluke Slope, 2% Walla Walla Valley)
16% Merlot (9% Walla Walla Valley, 4% Columbia Valley,2% Rattlesnake Hills, 1% Wahluke Slope
14% Cabernet Franc (◦8% Horse Heaven Hills, 3% Walla Walla Valley, 3% Wahluke Slope
7% Malbec (Columbia Valley)
3% Sangiovese (Columbia Valley)
1% Carménère (Walla Walla Valley)
1% Petit Verdot (Walla Walla Valley & Columbia Valley)

The Royal Tokaji Wine Co. Tokaji Aszú 5 Puttonyos Red Label 2006

2010-11-22T14:00:00.000-08:00

The Wine Spectator Top 100 2010 list is out today and it looks like a few wines from this year's reviews made it to the list. At #28, the Royal Tokaji Wine Co. Tokaji Aszú 5 Puttonyos Red Label 2006 (below you will find my original notes on the 2005 vintage of this wine from a post on January 13, 2010).
*******************

This is my first experience with Royal Tokaji, although I've heard a lot about the producer over the years. This is all caramel apple rolled in nuts, with some pear, toffee and minerals. Not too sweet, which is very much to my liking (I'm not a big ruby port fan because it's generally too sweet for me, although I am a huge tawny port fan) and an incredible balance of flavors. Still finishing for me as I write this. I gotta be honest, this one knocked my socks off and I can feel it down to my toes...I do believe I've found my new dessert wine.

My rating: 93 / Outstanding

Owen Roe Syrah Yakima Valley Red Willow Vineyard Chapel Block 2008

2010-11-22T12:00:00.001-08:00

The Wine Spectator Top 100 2010 list is out today and it looks like a few wines from this year's reviews made it to the list. At #23, the Owen Roe Syrah Yakima Valley Red Willow Vineyard Chapel Block 2008 (below you will find my original notes on the wine from a post on June 22, 2010).
*******************

Wine Spectator just recently gave the Chapel Block a 97 - a huge score for this wine. It's definitely very good and I am a big Owen Roe fan (was just at the winery for a tasting yesterday), but a 97 is a lofty score for this wine. On the nose, blackberry, blueberry, sage and eucalyptus. On the palate, same dark fruit as on the nose, with the addition of plum, espresso and bacon (although, I will say, this wine is hard to pin down on the various elements, harder than I've experienced in a while, as they shifted often). Very well balanced, with all the components working together in close harmony. Smooth tannins and a BIG mouthfeel and finish. Overall, a fantastic wine, particularly for how young it is (I decanted for two hours) - I just didn't think it was as fantastic as Wine Spectator thought.

My rating: 93 points / Outstanding (and don't get me wrong, this wine is fantastic, just not feeling the 97)

************************************

Short review this time, but if you want to read more about my thoughts on Owen Roe wines, well, you're in luck because I did a four-part / eight wine series on the winery about a year ago. You can check out those posts here:

Kosta Browne Pinot Noir Russian River Valley 2008

2010-11-22T10:00:00.001-08:00

The Wine Spectator Top 100 2010 list is out today and it looks like a few wines from this year's reviews made it to the list. At #12, the Kosta Browne Pinot Noir Russian River Valley 2008 (below you will find my original notes on the wine from a post on May 5, 2010).
*******************
Last night, I attended the Wine Spectator Grand Tour tasting in New York city - my first tasting in New York. Having come from mostly west coast tasting experiences in California, Oregon and Washington, it definitely felt more stuffy in New York, with far more ties than I will ever own in a lifetime. And, when I tried to get the attention of my friends by bellowing across the tasting floor, turns out James Suckling (of Wine Spectator) didn't appear to like the approach I took. I've never met James, but, in the off chance he reads this, yes, I was that guy. I only did it once, but my apologies.

The cruel justice of it all was that it didn't even work and I was left to huff it across the tasting floor to meet them at the food area, which, to me, is a waste of time at a large tasting. In any case, the tasting went well. A lot of good wines that I haven't had the chance to try before, even though the price of admission was a bit high at $200 (although, if I do the math on the high quality wines they had, I definitely got my money's worth). All in all, glad I went, but not sure I need to go to this tasting event again.

And, on to the tasting notes from the night:

2007 Williams Selyem Pinot Noir Coastlands Vineyard Delicate and light in color with a red fruit nose and a hint of pepper, vanilla and spice. Still tight and way too young to drink now, so hang on to it if you have a bottle or two. For me, this wine drinks just too light. My rating: 89

2005 Vietti Barolo Castiglione On the nose - cherry, strawberry, straw and anise. Great tannins and acidity and as well balanced as I remember from the last time I tasted this wine. Still young, but a beautiful wine hiding away, just waiting for some special event years down the road. My rating: 94

2006 Château Pontet-Canet Great fruit. Great acidity. Great earth. Great barnyard (just enough, but not too much). Great tannins. Short finish. My rating: 93

2006 Joseph Phelps Insignia Hadn't tasted this California legend before tonight and I was surprised that it wasn't as big as I expected - much more subdued and supple. Loses a little structure on the mid-palate, but good dark fruit, butterscotch and cedar, with great acidity and finish. My rating: 93

2001 Château Palmer Big, bold Bordeaux that I was looking for after tasting the Haut-Brion and Margaux. Big, bold, dark fruit, earth, cedar and leather. Full bodies and broad mouthfeel. Exceptional tannin structure from start to finish, with a long, lingering, deep finish. Outstanding wine. My rating: 96

2003 Château Mouton Rothschild My second favorite wine from the night's tasting. Extraordinary balance - earthy, dark fruit, just enough barnyard. Big, broad, lush mouthfeel. Strong, structured tannins with an incredibly long finish. Literally, shot through my body when I took the first sip. Definitely an experience to taste this one. My rating: 96

1999 Château La Mission Haut-Brion Still very young, even for being a '99. Surprising levels of acidity. Cherry, pomegranate - BIG fruit, but not heavy, with a phenomenal finish. My rating: 93

2007 Merry Edwards Pinot Noir Klopp Ranch Beautiful Pinot Noir. Supple, rich fruit and floral nose...big and warm and thick. On the palate, strawberry, cherry, floral notes and peppery spice. This is an amazing Pinot and one of my favorites of the night. Considering how young this wine is, it's sure to get even better with time. My rating: 95

2001 Château Margaux I really like this wine. Huge nose - woodsy, cedar and just a touch of barnyard. Very complex with tart fruit, warm richness, massive mouthfeel and a long lingering finish. Delicious. My rating: 95

2008 Luca Malbec Diluted and incredibly unbalanced. My rating: 84

2004 Château Lafite Rothschild This one and the Mouton Rothschild were worth the price of admission at the Wine Spectator Grand Tour tasting. Unbelievable wine. Intense, complex wine and so well balanced. Different flavors and textures come in waves every sip and the finish lasts for a good long time. This was my first Chateau Lafite and it exceeded all my expectations. My rating: 97

2008 Kosta Browne Pinot Noir Russian River Valley I'll admit it up-front...I'm an unabashed fan of Kosta Browne wines. And, this one is no different. Big rich nose I expect from Kosta Browne - raspberry, strawberry and spice. HUGE mouthfeel from this California Pinot, with raspberry, vanilla, spice and white pepper. All in all, a great Pinot. And, I'm always thankful when I can taste great wines at a tasting so I don't have to open my own. My rating: 95

1999 Château Haut-Brion Wow, this wine is still drinking very young, even though it's closed out its first decade. Tight, but still drinkable. A bit on the lighter side of Bordeaux, but with great complexity and perfectly balanced. My rating: 94

2007 Chalk Hill Chardonnay Estate Bottled I really liked the nose on this wine - like apricot/peach s'mores, with marshmallow and sweet toast. But, the mouth exploded in a wave of oak, covering up all the rich fruit and marshmallow. Too much toasted oak for my taste. My rating: 86

2005 Pio Cesare Barolo Pomegranate, red fruit, woodsy and tobacco. A little hot, but well rounded with a very full and broad mouth feel. Shorter finish than I expected. My rating: 93

2007 Caymus Cabernet Sauvignon Special Selection Always a good wine, but just a little too sweet for my taste. My rating: 90

2006 Avignonesi Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva Grandi Annate The nose on this wine is very interesting - like the steam from a just finished dishwasher, spritzed with lavender water and starfruit juice. Not my favorite. But, the flavor profile is very different - chocolate, dark cherry and citrus notes, with medium body and great acidity. An amazing and complex blend of flavors. My rating: 94

2004 Allegrini Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Absolutely huge nose on this wine - licorice, fig and plum mostly. Similar on the palate, with a huge broad mouthfeel and long finish. It's not as angry as some of the other Amarone I've tried, which makes me think that this is ready to drink. Although, the downside to that is that it feels like it's getting a little flat. My rating: 90

Whole Foods Wine Holiday Top Ten List - NV De Chanceney Cremant de Loire

2010-11-20T12:00:00.000-08:00

I like that Whole Foods always includes a bubbly on their top ten lists and I generally find them to be middle of the pack. But, this year, I find the Cremant they chose to be at the lower end of the ten wines. To me, it's too masculine, not much sweetness, big, almost unmanageable bubbles and a woodsy minerality that I didn't expect. There is some melon and honey on the finish, but, again, the masculine, almost musky, elements overshadow any fruit that tries to stick around for long.

What Whole Foods has to say: The best winter nights start when friends arrive, so welcome them in style, whether it's New Year's Eve or a weeknight. Pop open this tremendous, fresh French bubbly with our Isigny Ste. Mère Brie, or an old-fashioned cheese ball and crackers.

My rating: 84 / Good

Whole Foods Wine Holiday Top Ten List - 2009 Estancia Pinot Noir Pinnacles Ranches

2010-11-19T12:00:00.000-08:00

I don't know if I should give this wine the benefit of the doubt for being opened too early or if it really is the wine it is and not much is going to change. Given the flavor profile - cherry, spice, bramble - I would love to see this shine through, but there's so much oak on it that I can't always find the elements on their own. For me, Pinot Noir in this price range (sub- $15) is very risky and it usually doesn't pan out for me that well. Although I will most likely have a Pinot for holiday dinners, this will not be the one.

What Whole Foods has to say: You'll love this rich, supple handcrafted wine for its pure pleasure…and its bang for your buck. The hint of dark berries is so perfect for big holiday meals and Cypress Grove Truffle Tremor that even the turkey will ask for a glass.

My rating: 82 / Good

Whole Foods Wine Holiday Top Ten List - 2009 Louis Latour Pouilly-Fuissé

2010-11-18T12:00:00.000-08:00

Pouilly-Fuissé isn't a wine name that you can just throw out at a party without implications. If you pronounce it right the first time, you're a wine snob, but if you can't pronounce it right, ever, then you run the risk of losing all credibility with your wine friends. Even so, I do like most of these wines. It's such a different expression of Chardonnay than what most people in the U.S. are accustomed to. No oak, no butter, just light and clean, with meyer lemon, honeydew melon, grass and minerals. This one is particularly light and makes me want to serve it up front over the holidays - a nice starter with appetizers, especially some good triple cream cheese, like Cow Girl Creamery's Mt. Tam.

What Whole Foods has to say: When friends buzz around the kitchen, nibbling while you cook, spoil them with this fruity, green-gold beauty. Like you, it dresses up or down, so pour it long and often with lobster tails, creamy Hervé Mons Camembert or a bowl of salty potato chips.

My rating: 87 / Very Good

Whole Foods Wine Holiday Top Ten List - 2008 Dievole Dievolino, Rosso di Sangiovese Toscana

2010-11-17T12:00:00.000-08:00

I'm not sure what to do with this wine. I like Sangiovese and just had an incredible Sangiovese / Cab Franc blend from Boudreaux Cellars (The Frangio), but this one is more along the lines of a typical sub-$10 wine - over-oaked, over-ripe and too many grape lots all jammed into one bottle (I don't even know if that last bit is true or not, but that's the feeling I get - as in, "take all the rest of the Sangio from over there and over there and over there and so on and put it in that tank and then bottle it...done and done." In other words, nothing impressive here and a very average wine. I doubt if this will make it to my holiday table.

What Whole Foods has to say: When Italian favorites like osso bucco and ragu are on the menu, tuck this one under your arm for the host. True to its Tuscan roots, it's a lively, ruby Red with a hint of juniper, ideal for Robusto cheese. Robusto cheese. On second thought, bring more than one bottle.

My rating: 81 / Good

Whole Foods Wine Holiday Top Ten List - 2009 Chalone Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc

2010-11-16T12:00:00.001-08:00

This is a typical Sauvignon Blanc in a lot of ways - some good grass, lemon and hay on both the nose and palate. Reasonably well balanced, good mix of fruits and a decent finish. Nice enough and nothing to complain about or praise.

But, here's the kicker on this wine for me...most Sauvignon Blanc's I taste and like are crisp, clean and quaffable. I can picture myself sitting on the back deck on a hot day with a bottle sitting in an ice bucket, not a worry in the world. This Sauvignon Blanc has that, but it also has an additional subtle layer of holiday spice - some good allspice, fresh nutmeg and clove. Holiday spices aren't usually my cup of tea, but in this case, it does work and although Sauvignon Blanc is not at the top of my list for holiday varietals, I do see why the Whole Foods crew included it. Nice work and a good surprise.

What Whole Food has to say: Enjoy this bright White with lighter meals, or sip in between the season's big feasts. Its tropical fruit, melon and spice make meals memorable, whether you're starting with a salad, gobbling up oysters or Whole Foods Market® Organic Goat Cheese.

My rating: 87 / Very Good

Schild Shiraz Barossa 2008

2010-11-16T07:00:00.000-08:00

The Schild Shiraz is back on this year's Wine Spectator Top 100. It was #43 on last year's list, but has jumped all the way up to #7 this year. I have not yet had the 2008, but here is the review of the 2009 that I posted back in January.

Cherry chocolate tobacco rolls, with a hint of herb and sage on the finish. Big fruit on the palate with an even delivery throughout the palate. Really liked this one and I'm not typically a fan of Shiraz. #43 on Wine Spectator's 2009 Top 100. My rating: 89 / Cherry chocolate tobacco rolls, with a hint of herb and sage on the finish. Big fruit on the palate with an even delivery throughout the palate. Really liked this one and I'm not typically a fan of Shiraz. #43 on Wine Spectator's 2009 Top 100.

My rating: 89 / Very Good

Whole Foods Wine Holiday Top Ten List - 2008 Bodegas Castaño Monastrell Yecla Hécula

2010-11-15T12:00:00.000-08:00

What can I say except "Well done, Doug Bell and team". This one is a winner on this year's Whole Foods Holiday list. I was actually quite stunned when I took the first sniff of this wine. The nose is full and very aromatic with dark, dark cherry, cedar, tobacco, chocolate and leather. A much more robust nose than I had expected. The palate delivers more of the same, with the cherry amped up a bit over the nose and the oakey elements subdued on a balanced and refined palate. This one is going to be hard to beat in the line-up this year and may emerge as my favorite on the holiday list, but I guess we'll have to wait and see. My only hesitation is that it may be a bit too rich for some holiday menus as it could compete with the food, but certainly it can stand on its own as a wine to enjoy later in the evening, after dinner.

Whole Foods has this to say: Like winter's best comfort foods–such as beef stew or grilled cheese sandwiches–this bold, elegant Red takes off the chill. Made from Spain's Monastrell grape, the pleasant tannins are vibrant with Manchego cheese while you warm up by the fireplace.

My rating: 89 / Very Good

Whole Foods Wine Holiday Top Ten List - 2009 Earthstone Chardonnay

2010-11-14T12:00:00.000-08:00

Really interesting color on this wine - a little golden, a little grassy green and a little cloudy. The green particularly is noticeable as the wine is pouring into the glass. Pretty cool color combo. From there the nose is lemon, cantaloupe, stone fruit and fresh cut grass. A very mellow, but seemingly balanced nose...quite pleasant. On the palate, the balance is still there and the lemon and melon come through, as does a stoney minerality. This is not an over-oaked Chardonnay, which is nice (at least for my palate). My only issue with the wine is that it kind of disappears in the mid palate - big up front, washed away and watery on the mid palate, then on to a medium finish. Other than that, nice wine to serve with appetizers over the holidays. And, someone will always want Chardonnay, so why not this one?

What Whole Foods has to say: Improvising calls for a flexible, iconic White like this, so stock up on bottles and see where the holidays go. Savor the spicy vanilla touch and bright apple notes, whether you're eating rotisserie chicken, roasted duck or Cowgirl Creamery Organic Buckaroo cheese.

My rating: 87 / Very Good

Whole Foods Wine Holiday Top Ten List - 2009 Romerhof Winery Riesling

2010-11-13T12:00:00.000-08:00

Pretty subtle nose on this wine, but still has very nice aromas of mango, orange and lemon. The nose does start to get a little bigger as the wine warms, but still pretty subdued. The palate, however, is anything but. Rich, buttery start on the front palate, with a sweet jolly rancher opening (maybe watermelon or grape), apple, pear and lemon mid palate and a massive oily, buttery finish. There is plenty of acid on this wine, but it's 2 - 3 layers in, as the richness wears off a bit and your mouth starts to pucker just at the end. For those of you who know, sweet Riesling is not my thing and this one is too sweet for me, but, if you like that, definitely worth a try.

What Whole Foods has to say: Set a spot at the Thanksgiving table for this crisp, award-winning German White, made by a family with 400 years of wine history. Apple and pear flavors make its crisp finish perfect for spicy Thai food or Fourme D'Ambert blue cheese.

My rating: 88 / Very Good

Whole Foods Wine Holiday Top Ten List - 2009 Bubo Old Vine Zinfandel

2010-11-12T12:00:00.000-08:00

On to the second wine in the Whole Foods Wine Holiday Top Ten List - the 2009 Bubo Old Vine Zinfandel. The first thing I noticed is that they call this an old vine zin, but I'm not sure what they did when they produced the wine because it's one of the lightest and transparent old vine zins I've ever seen. On the nose, ripe red fruit, eucalyptus and vegetal notes, moving to an over-oaked jolly rancher. Too much fruit and oak on this wine for my taste, but if that's your thing, this may be as well.

What Whole Foods has to say: Food lovers know that tailgating is better than the kickoff, and this wine takes the pre-game meal to new heights. Chow down on chili, burgers, pizza and piquant Fourme D'Ambert cheese to bring out the spicy, deep plum and gentle oak notes.

My rating: 84 / Good

Whole Foods Wine Holiday Top Ten List - 2009 Paso a Paso Tempranillo

2010-11-11T12:00:00.000-08:00

Kicking off this year's reviews of the Whole Foods Wine Holiday Top Ten List is a wine that was also on last year's list - the Paso a Paso Tempranillo. As I was pulling together my thoughts, I revisited what I wrote last year about this wine and it was spot on for this year's offering So, instead of reinventing the wheel, here's last year's tasting note (cheating? maybe...but it sure is efficient...).

Lots of dark berry, plum, sage and smoked pork, with just a bit of sweetness like you would get from a barbecue sauce on that pork. This is an interesting wine. When I first tasted it, it was a bit tight and the wine absolutely disappeared on the finish. But, after letting it open up for 10 minutes in the glass, there was plenty of rich, balanced finish. Medium acidity and firm tannins, with the tannins most present on the front palate, then easing as it made its way to the end.

What Whole Foods has to say: With jazz playing on the stereo and your feet up on the couch, the huge flavor in this floral, deeply colored Tempranillo keeps the stories and laughs going for hours. When everyone gets hungry, serve it with slices of chorizo and Le Gruyere cheese.

My rating: 88 / Very Good

2007 Joseph Carr Cabernet Sauvignon Josh Cellars

2010-11-11T10:00:00.000-08:00

This is an interesting one for me...pours light and tastes light and fruity for a Cab. Not at all what I expected. But, there's something to this wine that's actually quite nice. Black cherry, plum, black licorice and vanilla on the nose and cherry jolly rancher on the palate. Decent balance, light tannins, medium acidity... like I said, not your average Cab, particularly for California. So, if you're going for a typical Cab, this is not your wine. More like a Zin almost. Definitely worth trying at the $15 price point.

My rating: 88 / Very Good

NOTE: this wine was sent to me as a free sample.

Boudreaux Cellars

2010-11-05T13:00:00.000-07:00

When I think of mountain wineries, my imagination quickly makes its way to areas like Spring Mountain in Napa, an area that is known as much for its great wines as it is for its scenery (check my post on Newton Vineyards for a little more on that). But, this week, I was treated to a whole new kind of mountain winery, one that reminded me more of a ski trip than a wine tasting trip. As we drove through windy Washington Cascade mountain roads, with huge, jagged peaks towering overhead, I often wondered if we were actually going to a winery or if this was some kind of trap, orchestrated by a devious friend who thought it would be funny to drop us out in the middle of nowhere just to see if we could find our way back.

But, after a 15 - 20 minute drive up Icicle Road, we came to a very narrow wooden bridge that looked like it might hold us on foot, but certainly not in a car. Once we took a deep collective breath, we were on the other side, being greeted by two chocolate labs, one young and energetic and the other an older dog trying to avoid all the nonsense that the young’un was stirrin’ up.

We had arrived at Boudreaux Cellars…and I knew we were in for a great tasting.

Boudreaux Cellars’ wines are not new to me and I had just met Rob Newsom (the winemaker) a few weeks earlier at a benefit, but I had never been to the winery. Tyler was our host for the afternoon and he appeared to do just about everything, from cellar rat to tasting room to all things crush to waxing the bottles – you name it, he’s involved. He was a remarkably gracious host and did a great job of walking us through the operations and the wines, so we could get a full view.

He also gave us some background on the name, which made me a little nervous – I was hoping beyond hope that Boudreaux wasn’t just a play on the Bordeaux. If it were, I would have been so disappointed. But, turns out, it’s not and the real story is even so much better than I had expected. Rob was nicknamed Boudreaux by Gary Figgins and his son (of Leonetti Cellar). Boudreaux, for those of you who don't know (as I didn’t), is part of Louisiana folklore – a name that, along with Thibodeaux, often turns up as a central character in many Southern jokes (as in, Boudreaux and Thibodeaux walk into a bar…). I didn’t pry any further, as I had gotten what I needed to get out of the story.

I could go on for much longer, but bottom line is this – if you have not been to Boudreaux Cellars and you're in the Leavenworth. WA area, it is well worth the effort. You will not be disappointed. (NOTE: if you do want more information about the winery, I've added a little more information below or you can go directly to the Boudreaux Cellars website).

Now, on to the wines…

2008 Chardonnay
Remarkable Chardonnay, with a great woodsy, but not oakey taste - almost like a campfire, just before you get the flame going. Good citrus and tropical notes, buttery without all the oakey vanilla and spice flavors and an incredible balance. One of the better Chardonnay’s I’ve had in a while, especially out of Washington State.
My rating: 90 / Very Good

2006 Merlot
Holy tannins, Batman – this thing is HUGE! And a verified tooth stripper. Very, very young. Felt to me like it will become smooth over time (5 – 10 years?) and/or a lot of decanting, but it was very angry at us for having woken it from its youthful slumber. That said, everything’s there – the body, the weight, the suppler dark fruit, leather and smoke notes – and this is a very nice Merlot. It’s not as supple and elegant as say a Blackbird or even a Pedestal, but give it some time and this wine will be fantastic.
My rating: 91 / Outstanding

2006 Syrah (Wallula Vineyard, Horse Heaven Hills)
What is it with Washington State and Syrah? Coming off 4 years in the Bay Area, I was starting to think that all Syrah tasted the same (oh boy, I can hear the storm coming my way from the CA folks…), but Washington is pumping out a huge range of wines based on the grape. And, I couldn’t be happier about it. This Syrah is more on the acidic side, with tons of delicious red fruit, leather and earth – very much in the Rhone style - as opposed to some of the more meaty WA Syrah’s. I’m fortunate enough to be so close to so many different approaches to this varietal and this is a true contender.
My rating: 93 / Outstanding

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More about Boudreaux Cellars (from their website)

Boudreaux Cellars is located on the Icicle River just outside of Leavenworth, Washington. Four miles off the power grid (the only winery in Washington State completely self-powered), Rob relies heavily on Nature in many ways to aid his wine making. The 160 barrel cellar is completely underground providing very constant temperatures for the somewhat extended two and three year barrel aging. Above ground thick insulated walls and propane heat when necessary provide good wine making conditions for blending, bottling labeling, waxing, and shipping. Gravity provides transport for wines from the press to the barrel. Blending is done in a series of tanks ranging from 225 gallon poly to 1700 gallon French oak. The site is not well-suited for grape farming although Rob is experimenting with pinot noir, lemberger, and reisling in our estate vineyard.

Eventually the winery will be faced with local granite stone blending it into the majestic Stuart Range setting. Just the drive from Leavenworth up Icicle Road along the river to the winery is worth the trip. The spectacular wines are a bonus!

The site is well-suited for living deep in the Cascade Mountains in majestic surroundings and the views from the winery tasting room windows are spectacular. The Newsom's log home, located next to the winery, was used extensively as a location by Warner Brothers for the Steven Segal movie, "On Deadly Ground".

2005 Den Hoed Marie's View Wallula Vineyard

2010-11-04T20:46:00.000-07:00

First picked up this wine because of its close association with Long Shadows and realized when it arrived in two beautiful dark wood boxes that these guys weren't kidding around. I've hesitated opening one for a while, but as we come upon the new releases, it makes sense to know what I'm dealing with if I'm considering buying more.

This is a fantastic wine. Plain and simple. From there, on the nose, it's a huge chocolate covered Redwood forest (think about it...like a chocolate rain, falling in the woods - fantastic aroma). Cherry, chocolate, espresso and leather on the palate, with very big tannins. This could definitely use some time and/or some decanting (I did not decant this because I wanted see what it was like straight from the bottle). Very long and delayed finish, almost like a time release capsule, showing off at least three distinct layers on the finish. Good juice, to be sure.

My rating: 94 / Outstanding

2008 Rôtie Cellars Northern Blend

2010-11-04T20:38:00.000-07:00

Big fan of what's going on at Rotie Cellars. First introduced to this wine and producer at the Wine Bloggers Conference in Walla Walla this last summer. It was not part of any of the organized tastings, but was still one of the most hyped wines at the event. Beautiful structure, perfect balance, big black fruit - a true stunner and one worth trying. Seriously...What? You're still sitting there, having not ordered any? Your loss! Truly great Northern Rhone out of Washington.

My rating: 92 / Outstanding

Washington vs. the World: a blind tasting battle...

2010-10-29T11:00:00.000-07:00

Last weekend, I had the distinct pleasure of joining Paul Zitarelli of Full Pull Wines and Sean Sullivan of Washington Wine Report in a blind tasting of Washington wines versus wines from around the world. Paul was an incredible host and personally selected all the wines. One of the best blind tastings that I've attended and many thanks to Paul for a great evening.

The tasting was set up in five rounds - Sparkling Wine, Riesling, Syrah, Bordeaux Blends and Cabernet Sauvignon - and the 12 of us were assigned to one of three teams. With each round, Paul gave us a short primer on the round and off we went, first tasting on our own, then comparing notes with our teammates. He then quizzed us, so not only were we pitting Washington wines against some other great wines, but we were also playing against each other. Good fun.

Overall, it was a pretty mixed bag, with one runaway wine and plenty of surprises, including one bottle that was corked (which reminded me of the old saying "there are no great wine producers, only great bottles of wine," or some broad sweeping generalization like that...).

My tasting notes are below (these are not the notes of the whole group), along with what wine making region won each round, Washington or the competitor. For me, there were many strong players along the way and it went back and forth between Washington and the rest of the wines; but it wasn't until the final round that I smelled and tasted a wine that ran away with the whole night. If this were a horse race, we'd be looking at 8 - 10 lengths on the wine for this wine. Seriously, this wine blew me away. It was the 2007 Woodward Canyon Cabernet Sauvignon Old Vines from Washington. Truly spectacular and I'm very grateful to Paul for including it in the line-up.
So, without further adieu, the round-up of the night's wines...

Flight A - Sparkling Wine: Washington vs. Champagne

2004 Mountain Dome Brut Champagne Caramel and lemony citrus on the nose and palate. Lots of acidity. Big bubbles, made it drink like club soda. My rating: 88 / Very Good
NV Billecart-Salmon Champagne Brut Autolytic on the nose, with tons of bread dough, alongside fresh nutmeg, spices and minerals. Lots of citrus intensity on the palate. Smaller bubbles. My rating: 88 / Very Good

Winner: Draw

Flight B - Riesling: Washington vs. Germany

1990 Schloss Schönborn Hattenheimer Nußbrunnen Riesling Auslese Shimmery gold in color, one of the purest I've seen. Honeydew, tropical fruit and sweet aromas, with a sweet palate of lemon and butterscotch. This is a very well made Auslese. Unfortunately, I'm not a fan of sweet Riesling, but, if you are, this is definitely worth seeking out. My rating: 90 / Outstanding 2009
Tempus Cellars Riesling This wine was so pale, it almost looked like water in the glass. Lemon and minerals with high acidity and a high pucker factor. Just not that interesting and not something I would seek out. My rating: 79 / Mediocre
2007 Weingut Clemens Busch Pundericher Marienburg Riesling Spätlese Some diesel fuel notes on the nose, with sweet melon and butterscotch. Dry on the palate, with creamy, light fruit. Very nice Riesling, but expensive at $50+. My rating: 90 / Outstanding

Winner: Germany

Flight C - Syrah: Washington vs. France

2004 Éric Texier Côte-Rôtie Vieilles Vignes Gorgeous Côte-Rôtie - really well balanced, with several layers of complexity. Rich red fruit, leather, pepper and some barnyard funk. Long, lush, complex finish - damn near forces you to have another sip. This is drinking well beyond its actual age and showing very well right now. My rating: 93 / Outstanding
2007 Gramercy Cellars Syrah John Lewis Reserve Another outstanding wine from Gramercy Cellars. Inky black in the glass, with dark cherry, cigar and earth. Incredibly well balanced, with a long, lingering finish. My rating: 91 / Outstanding
2008 Reynvaan Family Vineyards Syrah In the Rocks Pronounced nose of ripe black fruit, peppery spice, lead and funk. On the palate, syrupy ripe fruit, meat and black pepper. In the shadow of Cayuse but not as savory or plush. Great juice from a relatively new producer. My rating: 90 / Outstanding

Winner: France, by a hair
(the Côte-Rôtie was definitely a great wine, but Washington showed up with two solid contenders)

Flight D - Bordeaux Blends: Washington vs. France

2002 Château du Grand Bos Can't score this one as it was corked. Still drinkable, but definitely with a wet cardboard aroma tip-off. Too bad, probably a pretty good wine. My rating: NA
1996 Le Cloître du Chateau Prieuré Lichine On the nose, wintergreen, pine and earth. Smooth cherry and earth palate. I'm not sure how the younger wines are drinking from this producer, but, after 15 years, this one was definitely holding up very well. My rating: 91 / Very Good
2004 Grand Reve Vintners Collaboration Series I Ciel du Cheval Red Mountain I want to be a fan of all the Grand Reve wines, I really do, but I'm just not. Series III (from Mark Ryan) is consistently a good wine, but most of the others don't do much for me. This one, the 2004 Series I, is the kickoff, inaugural wine for Grand Reve and it just felt very off to me. Not corked, but just entirely out of balance. On the nose, a massive blast of chocolate cupcakes, with licorice, chocolate and maple on a sweet palate. Not for me. My rating: 80 / Good

Winner: France

Flight E - Cabernet Sauvignon: Washington vs. California

2006 Groth Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve I was very surprised that I didn't recognize this wine in a blind tasting, as this is a very distinctive producer. But I guess that's the power of blind tasting. Elegant offering, even as young as it is. Tight on the nose and a light fruit palate, but well balanced, silky smooth, with a very long finish. It doesn't live up to its $150 price tag now and needs about 10 years to start showing its worth. My rating: 92 / Outstanding
2007 Woodward Canyon Cabernet Sauvignon Old Vines Although this was probably opened well before its prime, I was absolutely stunned by how well this is drinking right now. Layers upon layers of complexity on both the nose and the palate. Of the 15 wines tasted, this one was a true stand-out. Eucalyptus, leather, tobacco and crostini (that's a new one for me) on the nose, with rich dark fruit, leather and tobacco flavors on the palate. This will definitely be in contention for wine of the year for me. Absolute stunner! My rating: 96 / Classic
1995 Leonetti Cellar Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley Menthol, dark cherry and fresh mint on the nose, with an additional spice note on the palate. Very smooth and drinking well. Still surprisingly tannic with good acidity. Living up to the Leonetti name. My rating: 91 / Outstanding

Winner: Washington

2008 Kerloo Cellars Syrah Les Collines Vineyard

2010-10-28T16:00:00.000-07:00

Another very nice bottle of Syrah from Kerloo. Dark and ominous as it rolls into the glass, this one, like the Walla Walla Kerloo Syrah, is not playing around. The nose is huge and meaty, with loads of smoke and black pepper and spice. Not much fruit on the nose, as I think they kept that for the palate. Dark, ripe, lush berries wash the mouth in fruit, followed by a secondary layer of meat / savory notes, smoke and pepper. Beautifully balanced with good tannins, but not teeth stripping tannins. This is a very elegant wine, especially in its $30 price range. Another winner from Kerloo...the newest wines on my always growing list of Washington wines.

My rating: 91 / Outstanding

2006 Silverado Vineyards Merlot Mt. George

2010-10-28T14:00:00.000-07:00

This a big Merlot, with blackberries, cherries, smoke, sage and pepper on the nose. Silky smooth, well balanced palate of big, ripe ripe fruit, leather and black coffee. Very strong tannins and a long, but slightly hot finish. Overall, a very nice Merlot from Silverado.

My rating: 90 / Outstanding

2004 Nicholas Cole Camille

2010-10-28T12:00:00.000-07:00

Picked this up from Garagiste as one of their mystery wines, which was good because I've been wanting to try it for a while. On the nose, across two glasses and over an hour, I get almost nothing but freshly baked chocolate chip cookies. I'm not sure I've smelled this before, so if anyone knows why that would be on the nose (some kind of flaw, what makes it happen, etc.), would love to know. On the palate, however, it's a different deal - red cherries, pomegranate and dust. Highly tannic and with good acidity. The only issue is that it says 14.5% alcohol and I think it might be higher than that...either that or the alcohol is not as well integrated as it should be.

My rating: 89 / Very Good

Bonny Doon Vineyard 2009 Contra

2010-10-25T11:00:00.000-07:00

Ah, to be Randall Grahm, the winemaker at Bonny Doon Vineyard (or, as he signs his letters "Winemaker & President-for-Life")...so many wines, so little time to pontificate about all of them. And, so here comes another new wine from Bonny Doon, with much promise and oration.

From the press release for the wine, Bonny Doon claims, "Contra is a somewhat contradictory flashback/forward to the straightforward, frank wines of yester- and future-year. A field blend that contravenes contraindicated convention, with aromas of cherries and licorice, flavorful cassis, blackberries and silky tannins. A wine (hardly) contraindicated for gastronomy, it is above all, contrapuntal."

What?

Seriously...what?

I'm an English Literature major and for the life of me I have no idea what that tasting note means.

What I do know is that Contra is an incredibly nice wine for the price. The blackberries, cherries, cassis, licorice - they're all there - with the addition of some oakey vanilla and spices. It's well balanced, with a nice long finish that is just a touch hot. Overall, the flavor profile is good and I would agree with DKOONTZ [from GrapeStories] that this is a "Great 'good' wine." And for $14, the price is definitely right.

The only thing that threw me off about this wine is that I felt like some of the oak flavor came from oak chips, mostly because the flavors felt additive rather than integral to the wine. They did in fact use oak chips (as indicated on the back label) and the only thing I would change about this wine is to use less of those chips or find a way to integrate more true barrel oak flavors. Hard to do and keep the price right, but it is a good, inexpensive wine from one of the most interesting winemakers in California, so would hate to see the oak chips overwhelm a great effort.

55% Carignane, 15% Grenache, 15% Mourvedre, 7% Petite Sirah, 5% Zinfandel and 3% Syrah.

My rating: 89 / Very Good

NOTE: this wine was sent to me as a sample from Bonny Doon Vineyard.