As prep for the 2009 Holiday Top Ten list, I went back to the 2008 list to see how the wines fared. Interestingly enough, all the wine on the Whole Foods 2008 Holiday Top Ten Wine List had a rating between 81 and 89. Hmmm...seems pretty mild. No real stunners in the 90's and no total dogs below 80. Now, that could mean a couple things: (1) I am a boring rater, never really putting myself out there and taking a stand; (2) Doug Bell and crew over at Whole Foods always delivers great value wines for the price, but with no unbelievable wines and no wines that would fall into my Wines to Avoid category; or (3) most wines fall into the 81 - 89 range and thus the general public has succumbed to mediocre wine experiences. With a bit of truth to all three of these, I'd love to hear from you about what you think of wines in the 81 - 89 range. What's been your experience? And, do you think any of this year's Top Ten list will fall out of that range?
In the meantime, let's get going on this year's list - the first wine being the 2007 Helfrich Gewurztraminer. I was first introduced to Gewurztraminer because my mother-in-law is a big fan and having enjoyed some very nice ones with her, it just kind of stuck with me. Not at the very top of my list for whites, but definitely in the top 25%, so always eager to try a new bottle.
The Helfrich is part of a whole group of whites that I didn't expect to be on a winter wine list. Whites typically fall off for me in the winter months, when it's mostly bigger, heartier reds. But, the Helfrich holds up pretty well. On the nose, I got peach, apricot, lavender and cotton candy, but not as sweet as , say, the kind you get at a state fair, more like cotton candy that's about 80% cacao (huh? what did he just say?). In the mouth, more peach, some granny smith apple skin, with a touch of spice, along the lines of nutmeg and white pepper. Overall, the wine is golden yellow in color, with a rich, buttery balance and surprisingly long finish, with sweet upfront, followed by some bitter notes mid palate and all butter on the finish. In the end, a little sweet for my taste, but still a well made Gewurztraminer.
What Whole Foods has to say about it: This floral, spicy standout is the White for Thanksgiving and holiday apertifs. Bursting with freshness and a rich finish, it toes the line between old-fashioned rose and honey notes and vibrant tropical fruit. Serve with shellfish or spicy Asian food, or for downright buttery results drink with Bavarian Blue or Robusto cheese.
What you should do: Buy this wine in time for Thanksgiving. It will be a great one to kick off your night, especially with some good, rich cheeses, as Whole Foods suggests. The sweetness of the wine should be offset by the robust cheeses.
My rating: 87
NOTE: the Helfrich wine was sent to me as a free sample.
Gadget
Haven't tried the Helfrich yet, but Gewurz is a fantastic wine for fall cuisine. It's floral nature pairs well with fall vegetables and it has enough body to stand up to lighter meats out of the oven, like roast pork loin with pears. I don't like it overly sweet, but a nice dry Gewurtz is always welcome at my table.
totally agree. there are some great gewurztraminer's out there. and, i don't tend toward sweeter wine either. the helfrich definitely has a sweet note to it, but i wouldn't call it a sweet wine, like a sweet riesling or something like that. you should be careful what you pair it with, as you said, but worth a try.