Wine Blog of the month - Steve Heimoff

Posted on 09-30-09

There aren't a lot of bloggers out there that have their own Wikipedia page, but Steve Heimoff does. In some camps, he'd be called a "real" writer, someone who has dedicated his life to writing and writing about wine. What a gig! And, he's damn good at it. His blog is always interesting and a great source of information, entertainment and thought-provoking pieces. Check him out - he definitely gives you plenty of food - or wine - for thought.

steve heimoff

Whole Foods Top Ten Holiday Wine List

Posted on 09-05-09

Holiday wine list? What? Summer isn't even over yet...in fact, in San Francisco, it hasn't really even started. But, it is September and the holidays will be upon us before you know it. For Whole Foods, that means releasing their Holiday Top Ten list some time in October. But, before that happens, look for a few posts of my interview with Doug Bell, one of two global wine buyers for Whole Foods. Great guy, interesting conversation and a peek into a very big job. Coming soon...

Whole Foods

Follow me on Twitter

Posted on 09-03-09

It is amazing to me how much activity there is in the online wine world - bloggers, wine communities, wine sites, winery sites...and Twitter, the online phenomenon where everyone with a thought can share it with others who may or may not care. If you do care, follow me on Twitter and let's start up a discussion about wine.

Twitter logo
There is so much to like about this time of year, particularly if you're a fan of fall and the onset of cold weather like I am. But, most of all, it's the time of year when Whole Foods comes out with their Holiday Top Ten Wine List. If you remember, or have followed this blog long enough, you know this will be the third Whole Foods Top Ten I've reviewed (you can find them here under the Whole Foods category) and I'm more eager to get going with these wines than I've ever been.

As with last year's review of the list, this post is the kickoff and to give you a peak at the wines included (see the graphic below). So, tune in over the next few weeks to get my ratings on the wines and, if you'd like, go out and get some of the wines for yourself, so you can follow along and we can chat about what you like and don't like.


In the meantime, here are some words from Whole Foods on this year's Holiday list (excerpted from their press release dated 11/4/09)...

From taste-tempting, luscious reds and bright sparklers to elegant, spicy whites, Whole Foods Market unveils its "Top Ten Holiday Wines" list. At prices fit for merrymaking, shoppers can toast old friends and new beginnings and celebrate the special moments of the season with wine all priced under $15 a bottle!

"Here's to this year's list - featuring a large selection of organic wines - which offers super variety at great values," said Doug Bell, global wine co-buyer for Whole Foods Market. "Whether you're looking for something to liven up a holiday gathering or thirsting to warm your soul on a cold winter's night, you'll find it on the list this year."...Look for Top Ten Holiday Wines displays throughout Whole Foods Market wine departments.


Cheers to holiday season!

One of the biggest requirements in the blogging world is authenticity. This is a space that demands transparency, openness, honesty, whatever you want to call it - but at the end of the day, people want to feel like they're hearing from and talking to real people. It's not like TV, where actors can play "real" people in ads and shows and people will buy it - many have tried to pass that off as real in the online world and have not fared well (remember LonelyGirl15?)

Along those lines, a question that I keep thinking about is whether or not wine bloggers need to disclose that they receive wine and product samples from wineries, winemakers, PR firms and whoever else might gain from sharing product with anyone who has an audience. For me, I currently disclose the source of my wine – if I buy it myself, I say nothing, but if I receive a sample, I let people know that it’s a sample. In the blogging world, it’s my way of letting you know that my opinion may be swayed in some way by the notion of "free."

Where I struggle with this approach is this...

The biggest wine reviewers in the world are giving reviews of sample wines and not disclosing it. If you think Robert Parker or the folks over at Wine Spectator buy all their own wine for review, just go to one of their offices to see how much wine is provided by eager seekers of high scores and validation. Now, I have nothing against Wine Spectator and I truly believe that there has to be some kind of authoritative voice reviewing wine, if for no other reason than most consumers, unfortunately, need to be told what to drink...but also for the simple notion that bloggers need something to complain about, rail against, rally behind, compare themselves to, whatever you want to call it (if you disagree, just check out all the blogger noise over Robert Parker, starting with 1WineDude, who so elegantly steered us all through the debate).

So, if the big boys don’t share with you every time a wine was provided free of charge, why is everyone else expected to? When I first started this blog, I felt it was my duty and, to be honest, when I got a sample, it was like I won the lottery. I felt like I had arrived, like I had reached some magical point in my wine blogging and it was fun to share that with people. It was very easy at that point to determine which wines were samples and which were not, so, by extension, it was also easy to let everyone know what was what. Now, as more samples have been coming in, it seems 50 – 60% of the wines I review are in that category and the organization of it all hasn’t yet reached daunting, but it certainly takes some thought as to how best to arrange and store the wines.

The real question is this – do I review wines any differently knowing that I purchased it vs. having someone supply it for me? The answer to that is “no, absolutely not.” I have never gone into a tasting of a sample wine thinking that I need to treat it any differently than any other wine I purchased. That I can say with complete honesty. What I can’t say for sure is whether or not my biases come into the picture in a subconscious way – for example, do I have a preconceived notion that a high-end cult wine is better than a sample wine from a winery I’ve never heard of before? Probably. But, we all have that.

And, although I do some blind tastings, I refuse to do all my tastings that way because I believe there is some value to tasting a wine within the context you came across it. If I’ve coveted a wine for a long time and then somehow end up with a bottle, the search is part of that experience and, thus, should have an impact on how I taste the wine. Some purists may argue with me on that one, but that’s the way I’ve always seen it. Does it influence the end score I give a wine? Maybe, but never by more than a point or two and, let’s be honest, we all do to some extent, otherwise blind tastings wouldn't exist.

You may be thinking at this point – “Is this guy writing in his journal or does he have a point here?” My point is this – I’ve decided I will no longer disclose in individual posts which wines are samples and which wines I buy. I will provide an ongoing disclosure here on my blog saying just that, but wanted to let you all know that I’m treating everything the same from this point forward.

Let me know what you think on the matter and how you treat it on your own blog.

CORRECTION TO THE BLOG POST ABOVE (11/10/09):

As you can see in the comments for this post, Thomas Matthews of Wine Spectator has graciously sent along the Wine Spectator tasting guidelines (you can find them at Wine Spectator Tasting Procedures and Taster Profiles). Although the title of the post says that Wine Spectator does not tell you about their samples policy, my real intent was to say that they do not disclose it as part of every wine review, as was my policy for the last year or so. I have now changed that policy and, although I will not tell you in every post whether the wine being reviewed is a sample or not, you can always find my disclosure policy here.

2nd UPDATE TO THE POST ABOVE (11/12/09):

What an interesting post and timely topic I've picked, or so it now appears. I've gotten some feedback on the approach above, both in comments and via Twitter and email that the FTC just recently released a statement about this specific topic. No need for anyone to read through in length, but David Honig, of Palate Press, wrote an outstanding interpretation of the press release (you can find it at The FTC, Bloggers and Free Samples). Take a look if you're interested in the detail, it is quite fascinating, particularly if you're a blogger. Bottom line is this...the FTC is imposing different rules for bloggers than they are for magazines and, as such, disclosure is key for blogger who receive free sample. So, even though I would like us all to be on the same page - and I believe this release is yet another example of how odd the business side of the wine world actually is when you dig deep - I am going to go back to how I used to do this and let you all know, at a wine / blog post level, what wines are free samples. The disclaimer will be at the end of a post and look something like this: "NOTE: the "X" wines were sent to me as a free sample."

So, after all those corrections, hopefully this is the last one, and I can save myself from any cease and desist letters from the FTC. I'd love to hear what you all have to say about this and what you're planning to do with your blog.

Big House Wines

On Monday, October 26, 2009 6 comments
Not sure why, but ever since moving to California, I've been attached to Big House Wines. Maybe it's the name. Maybe the interesting labels and graphics. Maybe the great pricing. Who knows. What I do know is that I've kept them on my list of wines to pick up when they're released and that list is pretty short for wine in the $10 or less category (I depend a lot on my friend Jason over at Jason's Wine Blog to let me know what's good in the $5 - $10 category).

Three wines from Big House today - the Pink, the White and the Red.

2008 Big House Pink
The usual caveat here - not a fan of pink wine (unless it's the Domaine Tempier or Blackbird Vineyards Arriviste) so keep that in mind. Overall, not too bad. Lots of strawberries, minerals and a touch of pear, this one is a very smooth, easy drinker. Not a bad Rosé, actually, especially for the price of $8.

Ken's Wine Guide has this to say about it: This very affordable bright strawberry colored wine opens with a mild cherry bouquet. On the palate, this wine is medium bodied and balanced. The flavor profile is a mineral infused spicy strawberry. The finish is dry and subtle. This easy to drink wine is very refreshing. It would be a good option on a hot summer day. Pair it with pork chop.

What you should do: Buy it, if you like
Rosé.

My rating: 85

2008 Big House White
Hadn't tried the Big House White until this tasting and although it's not the best white I've ever had, it's quite nice. A good blend of peach, pear and apricot, with mid-level acidity (but not as much as I expected). I found it to be a little hot on the finish, but the colder I tasted it, the less I picked up the alcohol, making this one reserved only for summer, straight out of the fridge or cooler.

Ken's Wine Guide says this: If you like refreshing summer white wines that have some ripe fruit flavors, then this white blend may be the wine for you. It opens with a very attractive and aromatic floral bouquet. On the palate, this wine is medium bodied, balanced, and shows a touch of sweetness. The flavor profile is a pleasant blend of ripe peach with hints of pear, light lime, and lychee. Overall it was very tasty. The finish is very refreshing. This very affordable white wine was my favorite from the Big House lineup. Enjoy it chilled this summer by the pool.

What you should do: Buy it. At $10, it's hard to lose on the Big House White. But, I would serve it nicely chilled, so that the alcohol doesn't come out to bite you.

My rating: 86

2007 Big House Red
This was the first Big House I tasted - the red. 4 years ago, I was impressed with the wine, something that stood out for under $10 and showed some complexity that I did not expect. Cherry, raspberry, vanilla and white pepper are all major players in this wine. Some heat on the back end, but not too much to make it unbearable. The acidity is just right and is what brings this wine to life. Definitely a good weekday burger or pizza wine.

Big House Wines has this to say about it: Each variety selected for this blend brings its individual characters and distinct personality: spiciness from the Syrah, cherry and raspberries from the Sangiovese and Barbera, blueberries from the Tannat, cassis from the Grenache and chocolate from Mourvèdre. A wonderful mix of the best each variety has to offer.

What you should do: Buy it. A great value at $9, this will no disappoint.

My rating: 87

NOTE: the Big House Wines were sent to me as a sample from the winery.

Tandem Wines Chardonnay

On Saturday, October 24, 2009 2 comments

I was first introduced to Tandem Wines at the Wine Bloggers Conference in Napa this summer. At the time, I felt like they presented some very strong white wines, particularly the 2006 Tandem Manchester Ridge Chardonnay. After tasting wines for about two hours, it's often hard for one to shine through and make an impression on your palate, but this one did. Definitely one of the better whites at the conference.

So, when I received two new Chardonnay's from Tandem Wines a while back, I was excited to try them.

The first was the 2006 Tandem Ritchie Vineyard Chardonnay Russian River Valley. On the nose, I picked up grass, pear, minerals and copper. The nose was also reminiscent of an indoor swimming pool covered in lemon and honey. Now, that may sound gross to some of you and just flat out indecipherable to others, but, for me, a kid who grew up in swimming pools, it's always a little nostalgic to pick up a swimming pool smell. In the mouth, some vanilla, oak, lemon, sweet grapefruit and honey. This was a nice Chardonnay, with good acidity (just enough to balance the richness of the vanilla and oak) and a smooth, buttery finish.

Wine Spectator has this to say about it: Sleek, with a trim, modest band of citrus and pear notes shaded by toasty, creamy oak. Gains complexity on the finish. Drink now through 2011. 87

The second wine was the 2006 Tandem Sangiacamo Vineyard Chardonnay Russian River Valley. A first, I thought I had accidentally poured from the same bottle, as it wasn't that much different than the Ritchie Vineyard Chardonnay. Still lots of pear and grass, with a touch of peach - not as much swimming pool, but, still, remarkably similar to the Ritchie. I went back and checked the bottles and it was indeed the Sangiacamo that I had poured,, so, given that I tried both relatively quickly after pulling them from the refrigerator, I decided to let them sit a little and see if they showed some different colors.

It was then that the Sangiacamo started to shine. It showed many of the same characteristics as the Ritchie, but displayed a richness that I hadn't tasted 15 minutes earlier, a kind of mellow sweetness. Not like the sweetness of a sweet wine, but more of a just-ripe fig or date-type sweetness. And, again, not too much, but just enough to balance the fruits and compliment the acidity nicely.

Wine Spectator has this to say about it: Intense and richly flavored, with tiers of honey, fig, melon and citrus flavors that turn elegant and spicy, gaining complexity on the finish, where the flavors fold together nicely. Drink now through 2011. 90

Bottom line is that these are both good, solid Chardonnays in their own right and I would definitely buy the Sangiacamo as it displays a bit more complexity than the Ritchie. That said, the 2006 Tandem Manchester Ridge Chardonnay Mendocino still haunts me from last summer. Not sure if it was the atmosphere of the Wine Bloggers Conference or the two hours of tasting that preceded the Manchester Ridge, but there was something about that wine that still stays with me.

What you should do: Tandem is doing some cool things and their winemaker - Greg LaFollete - is a strong one (look for a post on one of his Pinot Noirs coming soon). Pick up a bottle of anything they make if you can - it's definitely worth a try. And, they make enough varietals that you'll be able to experiment should they be to your taste.

My ratings: Ritchie: 87; Sangiacamo: 89

NOTE: the Tandem wines were sent to me as a sample from the winery.

It's been a while since the last time I posted on this blog. Nothing intentional or even writer's block, just life throwing some very busy moments at me. But, the blog is something I do because I enjoy it, so am glad to be back at it.

And what a wine to start back with...the 2007 Caymus Vineyards Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon. It's odd having lived in San Francisco for 4 years, but I've never tasted Caymus wine. A friend gave my wife and I a bottle of the 2000 Reserve Cabernet and we have yet to open it, saving it for a special occasion somewhere down the road. I've always heard good things and have wanted to try it, but somehow it just fell further down on my list than some others.

The good news is that this wine definitely delivers on what I've heard. It's a big, aromatic California Cabernet, with so many interesting elements. Over a period of about 15 minutes I picked up blackberry, chocolate, coffee, dark cherry, paprika and herbs on the nose. So many good things, it's hard to list them all. In the mouth, it's just as extravagant, but without as many spice and herb notes, mostly cherry, plum, dark berries and espresso. It's a 15% alcohol wine, but, even at that high level, it's an incredibly well balanced wine with very firm tannins, mild but good acidity and an incredibly long finish. Definitely still a little young, but deserving of the Caymus name. This is a fabulous wine and should have the stamina to peak at about 5 - 7 years...just decant it if you want to enjoy it now.

Wine Spectator has this to say about it: Ripe and fleshy, with rich plum, wild berry, spice and savory herb notes that are complex, full-bodied and expansive on the palate, ending with firm tannins and a dash of espresso. Drink now through 2016.

Gary Vaynerchuk also just recently had the 2007 Caymus on his show at Wine Library TV Episode #749. Gary's dad is on the video as well, which always turns up some funny moments.


What you should do: Buy it. This juice isn't cheap at about $60 a bottle, but that's what you can expect from Caymus at this point. What I will say is that Caymus is a very trusted name and if you're going to drop that kind of money on a bottle of wine, then this is one of the most tried and true brands in California.

My rating: 93, between Wine Spectator and Gary and his dad.
    --------------------------------------------------------